How to tile a shower wall
A shower needs a vapor and water barrier.
For a tile job to be truly spectacular follow this expert advice on how to tile a shower wall.
Start with the underlying framework of the shower: a properly sloped and waterproofed shower pan. Whether you use a one-piece unit manufactured from fiberglass, poured concrete or a built-up system using a waterproof membrane, a sound base is integral to keeping water from leaking where it will undermine the rest of the job.
A shower wall also needs a vapor and water barrier. Water vapor can seep through some types of tile and if there is even one small void in a tiled shower wall, water will find its way through it. An extra barrier behind the substrate – either plastic sheeting or heavy felt paper – is the best insurance against water damage.
The walls of a shower should be protected with a vapor barrier – in this case heavy felt paper – before installing the cement board.
The wall substrate is next. Some proprietary tile underlayment systems are designed specifically for showers, but cement backer board is the most common and is ideal for shower walls. Make sure the shower pan is properly flashed beneath the bottom edge of the cement board, and that the cement board is properly attached to the wall framing.
All fasteners and cement board seams should be waterproofed with the appropriate material – typically fiberglass tape and modified thinset similar to taping and mudding drywall.
All fasteners and cement board seams should be waterproofed with the appropriate material – typically fiberglass tape and modified thinset similar to taping and mudding drywall.
How to tile a shower wall
Step 1
Measure the walls carefully; shower walls are seldom perfectly square and plumb. Do a dry layout of the tile (including spacers) on the floor using your measurements. This will allow you to determine where cuts should be made and where to start setting the tile. It will also allow you to isolate any areas where grout lines may be too close to a corner that is out of plumb and other similar problems.
Use a laser level or carpenter’s level to mark a line for starting the first course. Sometimes, especially with large format or heavy tiles, it’s necessary to screw a starter board directly to the cement board on your starter line to set the first course. This will keep the tiles from sliding down the walls after you’ve applied thinset.
Start setting tile by spreading thinset over a fairly small area – as much as you can set in 20 to 30 minutes.
Step 2
Working in a small section, spread thinset with a notched trowel and press the tile into place. You may want to wipe the cement board with a damp sponge before applying thinset. This can keep the cement board from drawing the moisture from the thinset too quickly, which can result in a poor bond.
Insert spacers and check level. Typically, you have about 10 minutes to set the tile before the thinset starts to set up. Usually, you’ll want to set the larger tiles first, and then apply any borders, accents or listellos.
If you can’t trowel the thinset directly to the wall, such as in a narrow area too small for a trowel, back butter thinset directly on the back of the tile with a notched trowel.
If you can’t trowel the thinset directly to the wall, such as in a narrow area too small for a trowel, back butter thinset directly on the back of the tile with a notched trowel.
Remove any thinset that has seeped through the joints before it hardens. Use a screwdriver to scrape out the excess while it is wet. If it has dried, cut it out with a utility knife. Wipe away any thinset from the faces of tiles before it dries.
Use a wet saw to make accurate straight cuts, and a diamond-grit hole saw to make small holes for the showerhead. For larger cuts, such as around the shower valve, use a hand-held grinder to cut an accurate hole.
Step 3
When the tile has set – typically about 24 hours – you can apply the grout. Mix grout in small batches that you will be able to use within 20 to 30 minutes.
Start grouting at the bottom and work your way up. Keep the grout float at an angle to the joints and pack every joint, eliminating voids and bubbles. Once you’ve grouted a section of the wall, let it dry and create a haze. Remove the haze with a clean sponge and water.
Most cuts should be made with a wet diamond blade tile saw. You can also use a grinder to make large circle cuts in the middle of a tile.
To transform a shower from dull to dramatic, tile a shower wall.
Step 4
Wait 24 hours and apply sealer to all the joints – and the tile if recommended. Natural stone and some other tiles will need a sealer to keep them from absorbing water. Gazed porcelain and ceramic tiles are already sealed.
