Fast 5 – Five drywalling tips you should know
Ask any contractor, and he’ll tell you that drywall installation is only as complicated as you make it. And much like any task you tackle on a project, there’s a right way to do it, and a wrong way. We don’t have to tell you that if you do it right the first time, you can move on to the next step. Cut corners, so to speak, and, well, you know the rest.
Here are five drywalling tips that you can use to get it done right the first time:
No. 1 – Go gapless
Let’s face it – gaps mean extra work. That means that a cover plate must properly cover each and every tear-out and gap. Every plate should be taped and feathered. If you don’t completely cover the gaps around an electrical box, the mud will crack and crumble. These areas see a lot of action (all the plugging and unplugging), so they are more prone to be a problem if you are not careful.
Tip: Use your spiral saw carefully.
No. 2 – Go gapless Part II
And since we’re talking about drywalling tips and gaps, avoid large gaps at the floor. For example, if you are working with a wall that is a little over 8 feet high, two four-foot sheets are not going to do the trick. Sure, the base trim may cover that gap, but the tapered edge on the bottom will have to be filled with mud or it will show. That translates into more work for the person taping the wall.
Tip: Leave a gap in the center of the wall, not at the bottom, and cover that with a piece of drywall. This piece is easier to tape over.
No. 3 – Stay flush on the outside
True or false? This always crosses your mind – Your first thought is to cut the first piece of an outside corner flush with the framing and run the perpendicular piece flush with the first. Stop, rewind and listen to third of the five drywalling tips. If that first piece goes a little too long, the second will flare out. Cut the second piece too long and you’ll have to shave it down to accommodate the corner bead.
Tip: A quality metal corner bead covers a gap and holds up better as a flush corner piece every time.
No. 4 – Give yourself some space around door jambs
No matter how many times you work with them, window and door jambs are not always straight. Without fail, you typically have to adjust the jamb when you put in the casing. So, if you cut the drywall too close to the jamb, you’re out of luck.
Tip: When using your spiral saw, guide it with the wood that makes up the rough opening, not the window jamb itself.
No. 5 – Use the Right Sealer/Primer
After you have third coated and final sanded the seams, corners and nails, you have to use the right sealer/primer on the walls before you paint. Find a coating that can eliminate joint banding and texture problems that happen when regular paint is applied to freshly finished drywall. You apply the primer sealer like any other paint. It may look milky, but after you put it on the wall, it will dry as white as fleece.
Tip: Remember to apply a primer/sealer before painting.
